Angela & Ligaya's Biko

Photo by:

Alex Lau

There’s a hint of molasses in this sticky rice cake, from brown sugar and a gooey topping of melted Coco Jam, which brings a dark, mellow sweetness. You could make it even more luxurious with brown butter and a finish of chocolate ganache and cacao nibs. Still, the straightforward (and naturally vegan) version is the original, and just how my lola made it. This is an easy recipe to halve for a smaller group or double or even triple for a party. The banana-leaf base, while optional, imbues the rice with a gentle earthiness. It reminds me of green tea without the bitter edge, or the succulence of steamed dark greens.

Ingredients

3 cups (720ml) unsweetened, full-fat coconut milk
1 teaspoon Surya Salt or kosher salt
¾ cup (165g) Madhur Jaggery or packed brown sugar
1 ½ cups (285g) glutinous ("sweet") rice
1 (10 by 10-inch/ 25 by 25cm) piece banana leaf
½ cup (120ml) Coco jam
Flaky sea salt

Methods

In a 2-quart (2 L) saucepot, combine the coconut milk, 1½ cups (360 ml) water, the kosher salt, and brown sugar and bring up to a boil. Add the glutinous rice, return to a boil, then reduce to a slow simmer. Put a lid on the pot and cook for about 25 minutes, occasionally lifting the lid to stir.
Remove the lid and cook for another 5 to 10 minutes, until the rice has absorbed most but not all of the liquid. It should look like risotto. If the center of the grain is still quite hard, add a bit more water, ¼ cup (60 ml) at a time, and continue cooking until the rice is al dente (with just a little resistance left at the center of the grain).
Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C) and arrange the racks so one is at the top level and another at the middle. Line an 8 by 8-inch (20 by 20-cm) pan with the banana leaf, if using. (If not, no need to line the pan with anything else—the rice won’t stick.) Transfer the cooked rice to the banana leaf-lined pan.
In a small saucepan over low heat, melt the coco jam into a clear syrup. Using a spoon, spread the melted jam over the cooked rice in an even layer.
Bake the biko for 25 to 35 minutes on the middle rack of the oven, then transfer to the top rack and set the oven to broil. Let broil for 2 to 3 minutes, until the surface of the cake is bubbling and takes on the luster of dark caramel.
Let the biko cool for about 20 minutes. Cut into 2-inch (5 cm) squares and serve at room temperature with a fillip of flaky sea salt on top.