Asha's Akuri (Parsi-Style Scrambled Eggs)

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Asha Loupy

During three months on the road for The Diaspora Spice Co Cookbook, one dish I came back to again and again was Akuri, or Parsi-style scrambled eggs. Whether in bustling Irani cafés in Mumbai or at hotel breakfasts across the country, this easy Indian breakfast brought comfort with every bite. Similar to egg bhurji, but softer and creamier, the base starts with onions, tomatoes, green chillies, cumin, and a touch of turmeric. I like adding some garam masala for richness and warmth, too. A little cold butter folded in at the end keeps the eggs custardy and rich. Serve with toast or chapati and a squeeze of lemon for a simple, satisfying way to start the day.

Ingredients

4 tablespoons (60g) unsalted butter, divided
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
½ red onion, finely diced
1 to 2 serrano peppers, finely diced
1 teaspoon Surya Salt
2 plum tomatoes, diced
1¼ teaspoons Garam Masala
½ to 1 teaspoon Guntur Sannam Chilli Powder
½ teaspoon Pragati Turmeric
½ teaspoon Pahadi Pink Garlic Powder
8 large eggs, beaten
½ cup (26g) roughly chopped cilantro, leaves and tender stems
Toast or chapati, for serving
Lemon wedges, for serving

Methods

Heat 2 tablespoons butter in a large skillet over medium heat. When melted, add the cumin seeds and cook, stirring frequently, until they turn a couple shades darker, 15 to 45 seconds. Stir in the onion, serrano peppers, and ½ teaspoon salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions soften and start to turn light golden around the edges, 6 to 10 minutes.
Add the tomatoes, garam masala, chilli powder, turmeric, garlic powder, the remaining ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ cup water, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the tomatoes break down and become jammy and paste-like, 6 to 9 minutes. Meanwhile, cut the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter into cubes.
Reduce the heat to medium-low, add the beaten eggs to the tomato mixture, and let set for 1 minute. Using a spatula, gently stir the eggs, and continue to cook until large curds start to form, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the reserved cubed butter and cilantro, and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until the eggs reach your desired doneness (we like our soft and custardy), 2 to 4 minutes more. Taste and season with more salt, if necessary. Serve immediately with toast or chapati, plus lemon wedges for people to squeeze over, if desired.